There aren’t many cruise ships where you’ll watch a helicopter being craned onboard one day, swim with sharks the next, and end the week throwing flowers into the Pacific Ocean as an island disappears behind you.

Welcome to Aranui 5.

This isn’t a cruise in the traditional sense. It isn’t glossy, polished or trying to be the next floating resort. Aranui is a working cargo ship, a passenger vessel and a vital lifeline connecting Tahiti with some of the most remote islands in French Polynesia.

And that is exactly what makes it extraordinary.

Most cruises to French Polynesia focus on the postcard names. Bora Bora. Moorea. Overwater bungalows. Honeymoons. Blue lagoons. All very lovely, of course. But Aranui takes you much deeper. It sails beyond the obvious and into the Marquesas Islands, a remote, dramatic and deeply cultural part of French Polynesia that very few cruise passengers ever reach.

We stepped onboard expecting paradise.

We left feeling like we’d been invited into someone’s home.

What makes Aranui different?

Aranui 5 is unlike any cruise ship we’ve sailed on before. It carries passengers, yes, but it also carries cars, washing machines, food supplies, building materials, medical equipment, horses and, at one point, an actual helicopter.

It is the French Polynesian version of Amazon Prime, just with better scenery and significantly more palm trees.

Every few days, we’d arrive at a new island and watch the whole community gather at the port. Some were waiting for deliveries. Others were loading local goods to be taken back to Tahiti. Bananas, copra, handmade products, island produce — all moving on and off the ship while we stood there slightly wide-eyed, trying to take it all in.

It’s fascinating because you suddenly realise Aranui isn’t visiting these islands. It is part of them.

That changes the entire experience.

You’re not stepping off a ship into a port built for cruise passengers. You’re arriving somewhere real, somewhere remote, somewhere that depends on this vessel. And because of that, the welcome feels different. Warmer. More genuine. Less manufactured.

The guides and crew are Polynesian, and that matters. This isn’t an experience being interpreted from the outside. It is local people showing you their islands, their culture, their stories and their way of life.

A cruise for adventurers, not just cruisers

Here’s the thing: if your idea of a cruise is marble atriums, silent cabins, huge theatre shows and deciding between twelve speciality restaurants, Aranui probably isn’t the one.

But if you want adventure, connection, culture and the feeling that you’ve gone somewhere very few people you know have ever been, you should absolutely do it.

We were some of the youngest people onboard, and yes, there were plenty of older travellers too. But don’t let that fool you into thinking this is a cruise only for retirees ticking off a bucket list.

If you’re in your 30s, 40s or 50s and you love travel that feels a little less obvious, Aranui should be firmly on your radar.

Most people our age think French Polynesia means Bora Bora and a honeymoon hotel. This trip showed us something completely different. It was active, emotional, fascinating and occasionally hilarious. It was one of those rare travel experiences that actually makes you feel like you’ve gone somewhere.

Not just travelled.

Gone.

The itinerary: beyond the postcard

Our Aranui 5 cruise sailed from Tahiti through the Tuamotus and Marquesas Islands, before finishing with Bora Bora.

We visited Fakarava, Rangiroa, Nuku Hiva, Ua Pou, Hiva Oa, Tahuata, Fatu Hiva, Ua Huka and Bora Bora.

And honestly? Bora Bora wasn’t even the best bit.

There, we said it.

Don’t get us wrong, Bora Bora is beautiful. The water is ridiculous. The mountains are iconic. The whole place looks like someone has turned the saturation up. But for us, the magic of this trip was found elsewhere.

Fakarava and Rangiroa completely stole our hearts. Clear waters, rustic beach huts, bike rides, black pearls, stingrays, nurse sharks and that pure atoll beauty that makes you wonder why everyone is so obsessed with the same three honeymoon islands.

Fakarava was our first proper taste of paradise and it was everything we’d hoped French Polynesia would be. Crystal-clear water. Slow island life. That sense of being somewhere far, far away from normal life.

Then came the Marquesas.

If the Tuamotus are about lagoons and blues, the Marquesas are about drama. Huge green peaks. Deep valleys. Wild coastlines. Ancient culture. It felt part Moana, part Peter Pan’s Neverland, part “how is this actually real?”

The scenery was honestly breathtaking. Not polished. Not manicured. Just raw, proud and full of life.

Life onboard Aranui 5

Let’s be honest. Aranui 5 is not the most glamorous ship we’ve ever sailed on.

The ship is showing signs of age and our porthole cabin definitely needed updating. It was more rustic than we’d usually choose, and if you’re used to newer premium ships, you will notice the difference.

But Aranui isn’t about the ship.

It’s about where the ship takes you.

That doesn’t mean onboard life was bad. Far from it. The food was surprisingly good, the atmosphere was relaxed, and there was something wonderfully communal about the whole experience.

The passenger mix was brilliant too. French, German, British, American, Canadian, New Zealand and Australian guests all travelling together, split into language groups for excursions. Interestingly, many people onboard had never cruised before, which says a lot about Aranui. This isn’t necessarily a cruise for cruise lovers. It’s a voyage for people who want to reach places that are difficult to reach any other way.

A typical day started early, which actually worked in our favour thanks to the time difference. Scott would grab coffees while we got ready, then we’d head to breakfast before joining our English-speaking group.

Depending on the island, we’d either tender ashore or dock alongside. The French, German and English-speaking groups rotated, then we’d head off with our local guides, often in 4x4s, to explore the island.

Some days were scenic drives. Some had cultural visits. Some involved optional hikes across mountains from one bay to another. On islands like Fakarava, Rangiroa and Bora Bora, there was more free time to explore or book extra activities.

Lunch was usually provided on land, except in Fakarava and Rangiroa, which worked perfectly because those were the islands where we wanted time to wander, swim and soak it all up.

By late afternoon, we’d usually be back onboard, heading straight to the bar for an ice-cold Hinano beer as Aranui sailed towards the next island.

Then came the daily briefing, optional talks, dinner, and of course posting content for our lovely followers. Because paradise doesn’t post itself.

The people made the trip

The landscapes were incredible, but the people are what made this voyage emotional.

The guides were amazing. Passionate, funny, knowledgeable and so proud of where they were from. They sang, danced, told stories and made every island feel personal.

Our English-speaking guide in particular became a real highlight of the trip. During Polynesian night, hearing the entertainers sing local songs felt genuinely moving. Not in a staged cruise-show way. In a “this matters to them” way.

That was the thing we kept coming back to.

People genuinely wanted us there.

They weren’t just performing culture for tourists. They were sharing it. There is a huge difference.

One of our most emotional moments came on Fatu Hiva, driving around the island with our local guide, singing songs as we went. Another came as we sailed away, throwing flowers and palm leaves into the sea as a goodbye.

It sounds simple, but it stayed with us.

French Polynesia still feels deeply connected to its Polynesian roots. There’s a French influence too, of course — the baguettes, the language, the relaxed rhythm of life — but it’s the Polynesian culture that leaves the deepest impression.

It feels like a community that wants to share its life with you.

Fakarava: pure atoll beauty

If we had to choose one favourite island, Fakarava would be right up there.

This was our first port that felt like pure paradise. The water was so clear it almost didn’t look real. There were rustic beach huts, bikes, black pearls, stingrays and nurse sharks.

Swimming with sharks was scary at first. We can admit that. There is something deeply unnatural about willingly putting yourself into water with sharks, even when everyone tells you they’re harmless.

But once you’re in, floating in that impossibly clear lagoon, watching them glide beneath you, it becomes one of those travel moments you know you’ll talk about for years.

Fakarava felt peaceful, beautiful and wonderfully unspoilt. It was the sort of place where you don’t need a packed schedule. You just need time.

Time to swim. Time to cycle. Time to stand in the water and wonder why on earth we all keep going to the same obvious holiday destinations when places like this exist.

The hike we’ll never forget

One of the biggest “wow” moments came on the island where we hiked through the jungle and over the mountains.

At the highest point of the trail, we stopped and looked around thinking, “We’ve actually done this.”

By the end, we’d completed around 10km through jungle, heat, mud, climbs and views that made every sweaty step worth it.

There’s something different about experiencing a place on foot. A scenic drive gives you the view, but a hike makes you feel the landscape. You hear it, smell it, work for it.

That was one of the moments where we really understood why people say travel changes you. Not in a dramatic “quit your job and move to an island” way. More in a “remember this feeling next time life gets too small” way.

And yes, the cold Hinano afterwards tasted even better.

Cargo day is show day

One of the biggest surprises of the whole trip was how much we loved watching the cargo operations.

We expected the islands to be beautiful. We expected the water to be clear. We expected the culture to be fascinating.

We did not expect to stand on deck genuinely excited to see what was being unloaded next.

Cars. Horses. Washing machines. Food. Building supplies. A medical helicopter being sent back to Tahiti for servicing. It was brilliant.

The locals would line up, waiting with anticipation for their deliveries. Then others would bring goods to be loaded back onto the ship. You could see how important Aranui was in real time.

All the cars on the islands arrive via Aranui. Think about that for a second. Every vehicle, every large delivery, every essential item has to arrive this way.

It made the ship feel less like transport and more like a community service with cabins.

And yes, despite seeing endless bananas being loaded and unloaded, there were absolutely no bananas onboard for us to eat.

Not one.

We are still not over it.

Food onboard

The food onboard was much better than we expected.

Fresh tuna and fish were the highlights, and there was enough variety to keep us happy throughout the trip. It wasn’t ultra-luxury dining, but it was tasty, generous and suited the style of the voyage.

The only mystery remains the complete lack of bananas and coconuts onboard, considering we were surrounded by them for most of the journey.

Honestly, we may never recover.

There were also a couple of outdoor dining events, which would have been gorgeous had the weather not decided to turn on us both times. We blamed the gods, naturally.

Bora Bora: beautiful, but not the whole story

Bora Bora was the glossy finale, and yes, it is every bit as beautiful as people say.

But by the time we arrived, something funny had happened. We’d already fallen for the places we didn’t know as much about. Fakarava, Rangiroa and the Marquesas had given us something that felt more personal.

Bora Bora was stunning, but it also reminded us how much of French Polynesia exists beyond the famous honeymoon image.

That said, it did give us one of the funniest moments of the trip.

While attempting an ambitious Insta360 Bullet Time on a private beach, Scott accidentally whacked Tom over the head with the camera.

There was blood.

There were words.

There was a brief moment where paradise felt slightly less peaceful.

We laugh about it now. Mostly.

Accessibility onboard and ashore

Aranui 5 has lifts onboard to all main areas of the ship, and we understand they have welcomed wheelchair users before.

However, this is an adventurous itinerary, and it’s important to be realistic. Some islands involve tendering, uneven ground, 4x4 vehicles, beach landings or steps, so it may not always be practical for every guest to go ashore in every destination.

If accessibility is a concern, we’d recommend speaking directly with Aranui before booking so you can understand what is possible on your specific sailing.

This is not a reason to rule it out, but it is something to plan properly.

Things to know before booking Aranui

Pack walking shoes. Not just nice trainers. Actual shoes you’re happy to hike, sweat and get muddy in.

Bring sportswear too, especially if you plan to do the longer walks and mountain treks. This is an active trip, and you’ll enjoy it more if you’re prepared.

Sunscreen is essential, obviously, and insect repellent is a very good idea. You can buy many basics onboard, but we’d still pack your preferred products before travelling.

We didn’t wear reef shoes, but in hindsight they would have been useful. On one island, we were warned about dangerous stonefish in the sand, so it’s probably sensible to bring them.

You don’t need loads of cash unless you plan on buying lots of souvenirs. We used around £200 across the whole trip, including our before and after hotels, but that will depend on how much shopping you do.

Wi-Fi is included for a couple of hours each day, but because everyone tries to use it at the same time, it can be painfully slow. We eventually paid for additional Wi-Fi because otherwise you’d have had no content from us, and nobody wants that.

Laundry is included twice during the trip, with as much as you can fit into the laundry bags provided. They don’t wash underwear or socks, but there is a self-service laundry onboard for those. Dryers are free, which is useful if you’ve sink-washed anything or got caught in the rain.

The ship doesn’t have stabilisers, and you can feel it. The crossing between Tahiti and Fakarava was choppy, and Aranui moved much more noticeably than many other ships we’ve sailed on. For us, it added to the sense of adventure. If you’re prone to seasickness, bring medication and be prepared.

Cabins vary, but our porthole cabin needed updating. With Aranui’s new ship, Aranoa, on the horizon, we’d be really interested to see how the experience evolves.

Getting to French Polynesia from the UK and Europe

French Polynesia looks far away because, well, it is.

From the UK, we flew British Airways from London Heathrow to San Francisco, then United Airlines from San Francisco to Tahiti. It worked brilliantly for us because we added time in San Francisco, which helped break up the journey and gave us another adventure along the way.

From Europe, there are several options.

Air France and Air Tahiti Nui operate routes from Paris to Tahiti via Los Angeles. French bee also offers a lower-cost route from Paris Orly to Tahiti via San Francisco.

You can also route the long way around via New Zealand, or combine French Polynesia with Hawaii thanks to flights between Tahiti and Honolulu.

It is a long journey, whichever way you do it. But honestly? Some places should take effort to reach.

That is part of the magic.

Is Aranui 5 worth it?

Yes.

Absolutely yes.

But you need to know what you’re booking.

If you want a shiny ship, high-end luxury and a resort-style cruise experience, this probably isn’t for you.

If you want to go beyond Bora Bora, visit islands most cruise ships never reach, meet people who genuinely want to share their culture, and experience French Polynesia in a way that feels authentic, emotional and adventurous, Aranui is unforgettable.

For us, the ship itself was probably a 5 out of 10. The itinerary was a 10. The excursions were an 8, although we would have liked a little more variety and more options for different ability levels.

Overall?

9 out of 10.

Because sometimes the best travel experiences aren’t perfect. They’re memorable.

And Aranui is very memorable.

Would we do it again?

Yes, but no.

Yes, because French Polynesia completely stole our hearts. The lagoons, the people, the culture, the music, the mountains, the sharks, the hikes, the flowers in the sea — all of it.

No, because there is a whole world still waiting to be explored.

Would we go back to French Polynesia? Absolutely. Maybe on Aranui’s new ship. Maybe on Windstar from Tahiti to the Cook Islands. Maybe another route entirely.

But this voyage gave us something very special. It showed us a side of French Polynesia that felt proud, rooted and alive.

From the other side of the world, it was incredible to see what is literally on the other side. For Tom, French Polynesia had always been a bucket list destination. For both of us, it became so much more than that.

It isn’t the Caribbean. It isn’t Hawaii. It isn’t just Bora Bora.

It is French Polynesia.

Paradise, proud locals and nature — all wrapped together in one of the most extraordinary adventures we’ve ever taken.

And if you’ve ever dreamed of going, don’t wait for the “right age” or the “perfect time”.

You should absolutely do it.